My Adventures in Cusco

I found that I really liked Cusco - the vibe, the city, the people - which worked out well because the whole Machu Picchu trip required me to spend a bit of time in Cusco figuring things out. I spent quite a bit of time with the Argentines shopping, exploring the city, eating and going out. I did eat at McDonalds which was quite tasty (better than in the US but same as BsAs). One of the nights we went out to a little french resturant in the barrio (neighborhood) of San Blas - kinda like San Telmo in BsAs. After we went out to a bar called 7 Angelitos (seven little angles). The owner was argentine (as were quite a few of the other drinkers when we arrived) and he made the most excellent mojitos. I don´t think I´ve ever had one as tasty as the ones he made. A bit later there was a punk/ska/rock band that played which ended up being really good. They played a good mix of covers (from US, Latin America and Europe) as well as their own stuff. Turned out to be a pretty big night out but it was so so fun.

The next day I went bungee jumping (not the best idea when you´re hung over but I survived). It was a place about 15 minutes outside Cusco. Basically they strapped my ankles into the bungee and also used attatchements around my waist and shoulders. Then I climbed into a yellow box cage thing and got hoisted about 105 meteres into the air. Going up I felt ok, just a little nervous. But to actually jump you have to walk out onto this little plank and then dive off. Ahhh for me it was way scarier than jumping out of a plane. I was kinda dissapointed tho cuz after the terrifying dive its just a short fall, a violent jerk and a little bit of bouncing around. But it was fun and exciting and I am glad I did it. Unfortunatly on the bumpy cab ride back to town my tummy was really unhappy with my drinking, eating and physical activities (but I kept it under control).

Other interesting things in Cusco were the market and the parades. The central market in Cusco was a lot like the one in Sucre. Fruit, veggies, meat, cheese, bread, sweets, furniture, meals and artisan things. For one meal I went there to try the Peruvian dish ceviche which is rice and salad and some kind of raw fish with lemon juice. Have to say I wasnt a big fan of it but maybe it would have been beter on the coast. Guess I will have to give it another go when I am in Lima. Also, I got to see a ton of parades. I cant remember the reasons for all of them but the best one I saw on my last day in Cusco. It was a celebration for the 100 year aniversary of a school and it proceeded from the school, around the Plaza Armanda and on to somewhere else. The best part was that all the little kids were dressed up and participating. There were older kids playing drums and other musical insturments as well as little adroable children dressed up in traditional dress dancing around with teachers trying to keep them focused on the parade. I loved it! Seriously tho, Bolivian and Peruvian babies and little kids are some of the cutest I think I have seen.

From Cusco I headed to the most famous place in Peru, the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu.

La Paz, Bolivia

From Potosi it was about a 10 hour bus ride to La Paz. Although La Paz isn’t the official capital of Bolivia it is home to all the government offices and it is the largest city in the country. I’m pretty sure it is about 3500 meters above sea level and home between one and one and a half million people. The city is basically built into a canyon of sorts. The downtown is at the bottom and the city goes up in all directions becoming more residential and more impoverished (like in Sucre). I climbed up to a look out point one day and it was quite beautiful (and quite hard with the altitude).

I stayed at the Wild Rover hostel which is known for being busy and a pretty big party place. Had some interesting experiences in the hostel, saw some new things and its pretty clear that most people come to La Paz to party. In general I didn’t like La Paz that much (maybe because it reminded me of BsAs but not nearly as nice). One thing I did love tho was the people. Downtown La Paz is like any big city, busy streets, tall metal buildings and lots of people hurrying on their way. What was distinct about La Paz though was seeing these official looking men in their power suits and carrying their briefcases walking alongside indigenously dressed women in bright colors carrying babies on their backs and bread in their arms. I loved the contrast.

The other thing I liked about La Paz was the witch market. Basically it was a couple streets maybe 5 blocks from downtown full of people selling things. Each street was like a huge mess of color, bright colors. The booths were full of fabrics, clothes, jewellery, bowls, pipes, art, coasters, bottles, statues, wall decor, incense and weirdest of all llama foetuses. The place was full of interesting smells and full of the sound of people talking over one another and making deals. Definitely the best place in La Paz, for me at least.

I ended up spending only two days and one night in La Paz and then I headed off to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca.

PS
Here is a link to an album with a few photos.

Sucre, Bolivia

My time in Sucre started with meeting another group of travelers in the hostel. They had assembled together over the past week or so and represented about 4 countries. When I finally woke up Sunday morning and got to see Sucre in the daylight I was amazed. It is an incredibly beautiful town. All of the center of town is full of white-washed buildings with a very strong Spanish influence in the architecture. Sucre is full of these breath-taking cathedrals and arches and just beautiful architecture. Plus everything seems to be well maintained. It was the perfect change from Buenos Aires and the border towns I had seen along the way. The city is basically built into a basin so the town center is relatively flat while in all other directions it becomes residential, more impoverished and the roads just go up and up. I walked up one road to the mirador (look out) - which was really hard with the altitude - and I can´t even put into words how beautiful the town looks from above.

Right across the street from my hostel was this incredible market. The first part was full of Bolivians selling jewelry, toys and snacks. Then, inside, there are rows and rows of people selling meat, bread, grains, spices, pastries . . . Past that is this huge lane or row that is lined with women selling all kinds of fruits and veggies. There was a huge variety and lots of things I didn´t recognize but I do know that the fresh pineapple and apples were delicious. After the food part of the market you walk out into a square in which there is a collection of booths full of fabrics, scarves, hats, jewelry, sweaters, gloves, table clothes and other trinkets. The colors were absolutely amazing, ranging from neutral browns and greens to these brilliant pinks and blues. Of course, this was my weakness and I came away from the market with my wallet a little lighter and a bag or two of purchases.

Another thing that was new for me in Sucre was the people. Most of the women, especially in the market, are indigenous or at least maintain those traditions. They wear flats, tall socks, a very full knee-length ruffled skirt, several cardigans, a shawl or brightly colored material folded into a backpack like thing, their hair in two long dark braids that run down their back and then a bowler hat to top it off. Although some of the patterns or colors would change, all the women were dressed incredibly alike.

Most of my time in Sucre I spent just walking around and exploring the city. On Sunday there was this big car rally with race cars doing timed laps in a route through the town center. There were also classic cars and fancy cars on display next to the main plaza. I also spent a lot of time at the Joy Ride Cafe. It was amazing food and drinks and made for a good time with the group of travelers I was with.

Ushuaia pt. 2

Thursday I went to the National Park of Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego is the name of this state, the most southern in Argentina). Ended up walking thought the park with a Belgium family that was on my flight and an Argentino from my hostel named Mariano. The park was very beautiful, full of lakes, lagoons and forests. The family was nice but they didn’t stick around long. Mariano and I ended up walking one trail along the largest lake to the border with Chile. The border was just a small metal tower and a sign saying not to cross into Chile. Then we walked back and went to another trail that was in the southern part of the park. This one was a lot more difficult because a large portion of the trail was covered in ice and there were parts where it was safer to skate than try to walk. It was worth it though because the views were beautiful and it was incredible to be in such silence. A big change from Buenos Aires. Mariano was great company and it was much nicer to walk for 6 hours with someone else and not on my own (not to mention safer). I think in total we trekked about 9 or 10km.

That night Mariano, an Español named Siscu, another Argentino Guillermo, a hostel employee Adriano, a Chilena and I went to a bar called El Invisible. There was a tango class being taught and we just watched and had a few drinks. Back at the hostel we sat around and had a really interesting conversation just about life. I love hearing other people’s stories and lessons they’ve learned. Plus, I felt pretty proud cuz the whole convo was in Spanish and not only did I understand everything, I didn’t have to translate it in my head first. Besides seeing so many spectacular things, I think the best thing about traveling is getting to meet so many different people and to be able to learn from them. Plus its just fun! Anyways, it was just a really good start to this trip.

Ushuaia pt. 5

Monday was a holiday so again everything was closed down. I tried to walk around the upper part of the city but it didn’t go to well because I hurt my knee the other day. I think it was Saturday night when I was walking to the bar I slipped on some ice on the sidewalk. Anyways, now my knee is all swollen and it hurts to bend it. So I just spent the day hanging out at the hostel. Caught my flight that night and got back to the city by Tuesday morning.

All in all it was a great trip. The city itself was beautiful and relaxing, though I could have done everything I wanted to do in about 3 days (versus staying for 6). I think the glacier was my favorite excursion. Also, the people were amazing. It was incredible to see how people from different cultures, languages and ages can come together and learn from each other. I guess that’s the other thing I feel like I took away from this trip, more knowledge (and recipes!).

SEE ALL MY PHOTOS HERE.

This was my first time really traveling alone and it has made me sooo sooo excited to start the rest of my travels!

24 de Marzo

Yesterday was 24 de Marzo, the 33rd anniversary of the golpe de estado in Argentina that started of a seven year brutal military dictatorship which is also called la Guerra Sucia. It is now a national holiday that serves to remember the estimated 30,000 people that were "disapeared" during the course of the dictatorship.

I believe there were about 10,000 people (thats the number according to the media) who gathered throughout the day in the Plaza de Mayo. This is a huge plaza in downtown that is right in front of the house of government (like the White House in the U.S.) as well as other official buildings. Over the past few years I've learned a lot about the military dictatorship in Argentina (as well as similar ones in other countries) and how truely horrible it was but I know that not living throughout it and not being Argentine myself means that I can't really understand it. Never the less, being there with all those people was such a powerful experience, unlike anything I've ever been though before.

The plaza was packed with people of all ages and backgrounds (mostly). It was full of banners and signs for different parties and organizations. People were chanting, giving speaches, marching . . . I don't thing I've ever seen so many people gathered together like that before. Its hard to explain just how it felt but it was powerful, moving and overwhelming. It was also interesting because I've seen so many pictures and videos of Plaza de Mayo packed with people protesting, celebrating and mourning and to actually be there and experience it in person was incredible.