Medellin, Colombia

In Ipiales, Colombia (the border town) I bought a bus ticket to Medellin which I believe is the second largest city in Colombia. I once again got really lucky with my seating arragnement becuase I spent the entire 18 hour bus ride sitting with a Colombian guy (prolly in his 40´s because he was married with kids) who ended up being a wealth of information. He had lived all over Colombia and was very educated in a variety of subjects and thus turned out to be a huge help to me - just teaching me about the geography and politics and culture of the country. Lucky me. Medellin turned out to be a really beautiful and highly developed city. This is one of the things that really surprised me about Colombia - the high level of development and westernization (especially after so much time in Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador). Its such a shame that such bad stereotypes still exist about Colombia and its people becuase I haven´t found any of it to be true. The two most impressive things about Medellin were its public transportation system and the Mueseo de Antioquia. The transportation system was soooo clean (not at all like in BsAs) and it included busses, metro and ahhh I can´t remember what they are called in English . . . . gondolas I think. The museum consisted mostly of art by Fernando Botero. I recognized some of his works but I hadn´t heard his name before, and even though I´m not usually a big fan of art museums, this one I loved. I also discovered another artist that I really like - Luis Caballero. I don´t think I´ve ever been affected by a piece of art until I saw something by him.

Also in Medellin I did paragliding. Don´t think I would classify it as an extreme sport but it was really fun and the view of the city was breath-taking. After two nights in Medellin I headed north to the carribean coast of Colombia.

Northern Peru and Ecuador

Ok so I don´t have a lot to say about this part of my trip and honestly I´m getting kind of bored writing this. So I´ll do a quick summary. After Machu Pichhu I went back to Cusco for a few hours then took an overnight bus to Lima. Lima was kind of shocking for me because it was the first time I had been in such a developed, huge and westernized city since I left Buenos Aires. Just seeing all the new cars was weird. But I did get to go to Starbucks (I´m bad, I know). Only stayed one night in Lima then did a 18 hour bus ride to the border with Ecuador. Met a really nice Peruvian guy (but who had been living in Europe for the past 15 years) on the bus named Carlos. We helped each other out crossing the border (which is a bit tricky between Peru and Ecuador) and then decided to go to Cuenca together. Cuenca, Ecuador ended up being a small town reminiscent of Sucre, Bolivia. The best part was that there was some sort of festival going on so each evening the main square was filled to the brim with booths of people selling all kinds of sweets and chocolates. I was in heaven!! The street food was good too and on our last night there was a big fireworks show. From there we headed to Quito, Ecuador (the capital). I didn´t like Quito at all. For me it was just a big, dirty and unsafe city that didn´t hold any appeal. Here Carlos met up with a friend and I left the day after I arrived. From Quito I bussed to the Colombian border (in total it takes about 20 hours in bus to cross Ecuador).

Machu Picchu, Peru

So, like any traveler who finds themselves in Peru one of my biggest - if not THE biggest - goal was to see the Machu Picchu. For those of you that may not know, Machu Picchu is a site of Inca ruins located in southern Peru. It was only discovered in the early 20th century after being abandonded when the Spanish conquered South America in the 1600´s (I think . . .). Before going I heard all kinds of stories about what its like as well as got tons of advise on how I should get there, what I should do and so on (its a bit complicated of a process and can be very very expensive). Despite my best laid plans and efforts to save money and bus all the way there I only made it to the first town from which I couldn't´t find the next bus so I had to take the train the rest of the way. I arrived in Aguas Calientes which is a small tourist town and the base camp for people who are visiting the site. Ohh my, I have never in my life encountered a place so overpriced and tourism orientated. Ehhh I didn´t like it.

The next morning I woke up really early in order to get in line at 5am for the busses that go from Aguas Calientes to the entrance to Machu Picchu (if you walk its really far and really steep). As soon as I got into Machu Pichhu I had to make a bee line to the other end of the ruins to get my ticket to walk up Wanu Picchu (a mountain that is part of the site that they only let 400 people each day climb). After that I got to watch the sun rise over the mountains surrounding Machu Pichhu and it was absolutely breath-taking. Just to see the rays of the morning light breaking over these impressive mountains - my pictures are amazing but not even close to how it was to actually be there. Machu Pichhu itself is this aww inspiring place because the architecture is so well done, advanced and just impressive. Especially when you take the time to think that this place was built on the top of a mountain over 500 years ago. I still wonder how they actually did it. This question was even more present in my mind when I hiked Wanu Picchu because it is soo steep and tough to climb that I can´t imagine how they hauled up the stones to create the structures that are on the mountain. The hike is more than worth it though for the incredible view of Machu Picchu and all the surrounding area. So incredible.

Honestly, my description of all this fails miserably at capturing what its like. Seeing pictures you can kind of have an idea but really you have to be there. After spending all day in Machu Picchu I went back to Aguas Calientes and went to the natural hot springs (thus the reason for the name of the town) with a group of people I had met in the ruins. Also tried Pisco which is a Peruvian liquor. Dangerous stuff . . . The next morning I bussed and trained back to Cusco.

I´m not so good at this apparently

So even though according to this blog I´m still in southern Peru I´m actually in northern Colombia. I´ve been here in Taganga - and around the town - for a little more than a week. Ahh I´m loving it so so so much. But tomorrow I head to Bogota and then back down to Lima for my flight back to BsAs. I promise to update it better and add more pics when I get back to BsAs. I have some good stories to tell . . . .

My Adventures in Cusco

I found that I really liked Cusco - the vibe, the city, the people - which worked out well because the whole Machu Picchu trip required me to spend a bit of time in Cusco figuring things out. I spent quite a bit of time with the Argentines shopping, exploring the city, eating and going out. I did eat at McDonalds which was quite tasty (better than in the US but same as BsAs). One of the nights we went out to a little french resturant in the barrio (neighborhood) of San Blas - kinda like San Telmo in BsAs. After we went out to a bar called 7 Angelitos (seven little angles). The owner was argentine (as were quite a few of the other drinkers when we arrived) and he made the most excellent mojitos. I don´t think I´ve ever had one as tasty as the ones he made. A bit later there was a punk/ska/rock band that played which ended up being really good. They played a good mix of covers (from US, Latin America and Europe) as well as their own stuff. Turned out to be a pretty big night out but it was so so fun.

The next day I went bungee jumping (not the best idea when you´re hung over but I survived). It was a place about 15 minutes outside Cusco. Basically they strapped my ankles into the bungee and also used attatchements around my waist and shoulders. Then I climbed into a yellow box cage thing and got hoisted about 105 meteres into the air. Going up I felt ok, just a little nervous. But to actually jump you have to walk out onto this little plank and then dive off. Ahhh for me it was way scarier than jumping out of a plane. I was kinda dissapointed tho cuz after the terrifying dive its just a short fall, a violent jerk and a little bit of bouncing around. But it was fun and exciting and I am glad I did it. Unfortunatly on the bumpy cab ride back to town my tummy was really unhappy with my drinking, eating and physical activities (but I kept it under control).

Other interesting things in Cusco were the market and the parades. The central market in Cusco was a lot like the one in Sucre. Fruit, veggies, meat, cheese, bread, sweets, furniture, meals and artisan things. For one meal I went there to try the Peruvian dish ceviche which is rice and salad and some kind of raw fish with lemon juice. Have to say I wasnt a big fan of it but maybe it would have been beter on the coast. Guess I will have to give it another go when I am in Lima. Also, I got to see a ton of parades. I cant remember the reasons for all of them but the best one I saw on my last day in Cusco. It was a celebration for the 100 year aniversary of a school and it proceeded from the school, around the Plaza Armanda and on to somewhere else. The best part was that all the little kids were dressed up and participating. There were older kids playing drums and other musical insturments as well as little adroable children dressed up in traditional dress dancing around with teachers trying to keep them focused on the parade. I loved it! Seriously tho, Bolivian and Peruvian babies and little kids are some of the cutest I think I have seen.

From Cusco I headed to the most famous place in Peru, the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu.

Cusco, Peru

From Copacabana I bussed it with the Argentines to Cusco, Peru. First we took a small run-down bus from Bolivia, crossed the border (easiest border crossing I´ve experienced) then arrived in Puno, Peru about 3 hours later. Here we had a small break and then boarded a large normal long distance bus for the rest of the trip to Cusco. I decided that I really don´t like long bus trips during the day because they tend to be more uncomfortable and I feel like I´m wasting a lot of time. And night busses are great cuz I just watch a movie, taking a sleeping pill and then wake up in the next place. Plus I save money not paying for sleeping accomodations that night. Anyways, we got to Cusco in the evening and checked into a hostel called The Point, another larger party hostel (but this time I picked it). The hostel was really nice with a big screen tv, bar, outside area with hamnocks, amazing showers and comfortable beds. The first night we got dinner at a nicer resturant and even though it was a bit pricy it was worth it for the delicious tuna melt I had.

Cusco at night is absolutely beautiful. The main Plaza is called Plaza Armada and is surrounded by nice boutiques squished inbetween these massive anciant churches. The churches are very impressive and at night are lit up beautifully. In the center of the plaza is a grassy area with a big fountian, benches, flowers and lots of Cusco flags (they are striped with a bunch of colors - kind of like the gay pride flags). In addition to the botiques there are also a bunch of resturants and tourist offices. And each one has at least one person out front trying to convince you to come in and try this plate or take that trip. Also, there are a ton of ladies trying to sell massages and pedicures. Of course they are targeting the mainly English speaking tourists so its pretty funny how they use broken English to sell stuff. Ok maybe I shouldn´t laugh but wait til you hear an impression of them. Haha.

The rest of Cusco was similar to Sucre, lots of Spanish architecture, cobble stone streets and hills in every direction. The weird thing tho was the massive amount of tourists. Almost everyone comes to Peru to see Machu Picchu and almost everyone stays in Cusco before or after Machu Picchu. Especially around the main plaza it felt like there were as many tourists as locals. I noticed that there were two types of tourists. The young tourist about 20-30, traveling alone or in a group of 3 or 5, dressed in trekking shoes, striped pajama pants (purchased in Cusco) or jeans and a sweater made of Alpaca (plus maybe a hat of Alpaca or a bright/bag purse thing. Then there is the old tourist. Always white (mostly European) dressed in trekking shoes, kaki pants, neutral colored t-shirt, kaki safari vest, large hi-tech camera, walking stick and safari hat or ball cap. Always in large groups and generally with a guide. Part of me found it funny but the other part of me was really weirded out cuz I´ve never seen so many tourists in one place - let alone so many tourists that stick out as much as in Cusco. Of course, I must add that I definitely fit into the first category myself unfortunatly.

Copacabana, Bolivia

My last stop in Bolivia was the small town of Copacabana on Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is a huge lake (about 80km by 100km) that sits on the border between Peru and Bolivia. The lake and its islands are important sites from the Inca civilization. Copacabana is a quaint little town that sits right on the edge of the lake. Besides the tourism which is pretty big there, Copacabana is known for its massive church which houses the famous Virgin of Copacabana (the Copacabana in Brazil is named after her). The church is surrounded by a huge plaza which is enclosed by a really tall wall. There are immense crosses inside the plaza as well as beautifully designed towers. Inside the church is decorated with amazing amounts of gold and statues and art. To see the virgin you walk through this dark and damp hall on the side of the church. The only light comes from candles that people have lit to pray with. At the end of the narrow hall there is a huge glass case in which the virgin is housed. All around the case are plaques and writings of thanks to the virgin.

The rest of the town is made up of one street that runs along the beach of the lake (mostly filled with nicer hotels) and a street that runs from the lake up towards the church that is filled with restaurants, tourist offices and street vendors. I stayed in a hostel about 10 minutes walking from the beach. It wasn’t anything fancy but the showers were hot and my double room cost me $3 per night. The only crappy part was that there wasn’t any heat and my room didn’t get any sunlight in the day so there were times when it was colder inside my room than outside.

I did a tour of the Isla del Sol in which I took a boat (along with a ton of other tourists) out to the island and then we walked around looking at ruins, learning about the Inca and current culture and just enjoying the views. The lake is seriously one of the most beautiful things I’ve seen. It goes on as far as the eye can see and is this amazing color of blue that looks even more spectacular next to the clear sky. It was quite a bit of trekking and I got really sunburned but it was an incredible experience.

Along the tour I met 3 Argentine guys and later we realized that we were on the same bus to Peru the following day. We ended up going out to dinner that night and I had this great Bolivian dish of french fries, sliced beef, egg, tomato, sausage and some sort of spicy sauce. Mmmmmm! Later we went out drinking - Fernet of course (a really typical Argentine drink) - and I ended up having this intense conversation with one of the guys about politics and dictatorships and the drug war. Sadly, I felt like it was the first intelligent conversation I’ve had in a while . . . While we were at the bar a few of the people I had met in Sucre showed up so we all ended up hanging out and drinking together. We stayed out pretty late and around 3 or 4 am when I tried to go back to my hostel I realized that it has a curfew . . . After about 5 minutes of knocking I gave up and went and stayed with the group I met in Sucre. Lesson: always check to see if hostels close up at a certain hour.

The next day I boarded a bus and headed for Peru with the Argentines.

La Paz, Bolivia

From Potosi it was about a 10 hour bus ride to La Paz. Although La Paz isn’t the official capital of Bolivia it is home to all the government offices and it is the largest city in the country. I’m pretty sure it is about 3500 meters above sea level and home between one and one and a half million people. The city is basically built into a canyon of sorts. The downtown is at the bottom and the city goes up in all directions becoming more residential and more impoverished (like in Sucre). I climbed up to a look out point one day and it was quite beautiful (and quite hard with the altitude).

I stayed at the Wild Rover hostel which is known for being busy and a pretty big party place. Had some interesting experiences in the hostel, saw some new things and its pretty clear that most people come to La Paz to party. In general I didn’t like La Paz that much (maybe because it reminded me of BsAs but not nearly as nice). One thing I did love tho was the people. Downtown La Paz is like any big city, busy streets, tall metal buildings and lots of people hurrying on their way. What was distinct about La Paz though was seeing these official looking men in their power suits and carrying their briefcases walking alongside indigenously dressed women in bright colors carrying babies on their backs and bread in their arms. I loved the contrast.

The other thing I liked about La Paz was the witch market. Basically it was a couple streets maybe 5 blocks from downtown full of people selling things. Each street was like a huge mess of color, bright colors. The booths were full of fabrics, clothes, jewellery, bowls, pipes, art, coasters, bottles, statues, wall decor, incense and weirdest of all llama foetuses. The place was full of interesting smells and full of the sound of people talking over one another and making deals. Definitely the best place in La Paz, for me at least.

I ended up spending only two days and one night in La Paz and then I headed off to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca.

PS
Here is a link to an album with a few photos.

Potosi

After my stay in Sucre I took a 3 hour bus to Potosi, what used to be one of the wealthiest mining towns in the continent. Unfortunately I decided to go out the night before . . . waking up hungover at six in the morning and then going to a city at about 4500 meters above sea level isn´t the best idea I´ve ever had. But I toughed it out because I really wanted to see the mines. The story of Potosi is that huge amounts of silver were discovered in the mountains there, thus it became a huge and very prosperous mining town. Since then the deposits have been depleted and only about 10% of what they take from the mine is useful materials (the rest they call waste). The main industry of the town is still the mine, thus it has become more and more impoverished.

I arrived in Potosi around 10am and went to a hostel to sleep some. Then around one I had the mine tour. We were 5 tourists and 2 guides. First we went to a facility to change into rubber boots, helmets and jackets. On the wall was spray painted ¨Argentina: 0 Bolivia: 6 A day to never forget¨(but in Spanish). I thought that was pretty funny (the story behind this is that a few months ago the crappy Bolivian soccer team beat the really good Argentina team because the match was in Bolivia at a really high altitude thus making it extremely difficult for the team not accustomed to the extreme altitude). From there we went to a miners market which was basically just a store where you could by mining tools, explosives, soda, water and coca leaves (used for altitude sickness and as a part of Bolivian culture). Then we headed to a plant where we saw how they process what is taken from the mines, separating usable materials from the waste. It was so strange driving further and further up towards the mine because I could feel the pressure from climbing in altitude.

Once we got to the mine there was a collection of little shacks that the miners use to change clothes and leave their tools in. All around the doors and the entrance to the mine was this red paint looking stuff splattered on the wall. Our guide explained to us that it was llama blood - like a sacrifice . . . Walking though the first level of the mine was interesting. Some parts were really high and I could walk upright comfortably but other parts I had to slouch down almost to my knees. We then got to a little room called the mine museum. It was a collection of statues of different types of men that had been involved in the mine. One was the devil of the mine which had all kinds of ribbons and coca leaves around it. Our guide explained that these were offerings to the god of the mine in hopes that he will keep the miners safe and keep the mine going. In the little room we sat down with the guide and had a really interesting talk about the life of miners and about coca.

He explained that mining is a family tradition and that he himself is a miner when there isn´t much tourism. We also learned that the people generally live for about 15 years after they start in the mine because of physical injuries, accidents and horrible air quality (basically breathing the air in the mine so much is poisonous). This was really sad, especially considering that there are young kids who work in the mine . . . We also talked about the production of the coca plant in Bolivia. There is a huge portion of the Bolivian population who cultivate this plant and deepened on it as a living. Basically the coca plant serves two purposes or two markets. One is as coca leaves which visitors use to combat altitude sickness or by Bolivians who eat them as a part of culture or tradition (they way Argentines drink mate). The other market of course is the production of cocaine which is huge in Bolivia. During the Bush administration he attempted to come into Bolivia and eradicate these coca crops which was devastating for the farmers who's livelyhoods depended on it. It turned quite violent for a while and there were hundreds of Bolivians who lost their lives. Even though I´ve learned about this before, it was so different hearing it from someone who had lived through the experience. And it makes me so frustrated with my government and its tendencies to act without consideration of the effects on others. Or without logic . . . . production can´t truly be ended until there is no demand . . . ahh I don´t want to get started on this. Back to the mine .. .

After the museum we continued on to the second level of the mine. We walked through a small arch and I could feel the temperature drop, the air thin and the dust increase a lot. At this point I knew I wouldn´t be able to go further (between the hangover, altitude and poor air quality). So I went back and waited outside the mine with another couple from the States who opted not to go inside. After the rest came back we detonated some dynamite which was pretty impressive. All in all it was a really informative and impressing experience which I highly recommend. Later that night I hoped on a bus and headed to La Paz, the effective capital of Bolivia.

Sucre, Bolivia

My time in Sucre started with meeting another group of travelers in the hostel. They had assembled together over the past week or so and represented about 4 countries. When I finally woke up Sunday morning and got to see Sucre in the daylight I was amazed. It is an incredibly beautiful town. All of the center of town is full of white-washed buildings with a very strong Spanish influence in the architecture. Sucre is full of these breath-taking cathedrals and arches and just beautiful architecture. Plus everything seems to be well maintained. It was the perfect change from Buenos Aires and the border towns I had seen along the way. The city is basically built into a basin so the town center is relatively flat while in all other directions it becomes residential, more impoverished and the roads just go up and up. I walked up one road to the mirador (look out) - which was really hard with the altitude - and I can´t even put into words how beautiful the town looks from above.

Right across the street from my hostel was this incredible market. The first part was full of Bolivians selling jewelry, toys and snacks. Then, inside, there are rows and rows of people selling meat, bread, grains, spices, pastries . . . Past that is this huge lane or row that is lined with women selling all kinds of fruits and veggies. There was a huge variety and lots of things I didn´t recognize but I do know that the fresh pineapple and apples were delicious. After the food part of the market you walk out into a square in which there is a collection of booths full of fabrics, scarves, hats, jewelry, sweaters, gloves, table clothes and other trinkets. The colors were absolutely amazing, ranging from neutral browns and greens to these brilliant pinks and blues. Of course, this was my weakness and I came away from the market with my wallet a little lighter and a bag or two of purchases.

Another thing that was new for me in Sucre was the people. Most of the women, especially in the market, are indigenous or at least maintain those traditions. They wear flats, tall socks, a very full knee-length ruffled skirt, several cardigans, a shawl or brightly colored material folded into a backpack like thing, their hair in two long dark braids that run down their back and then a bowler hat to top it off. Although some of the patterns or colors would change, all the women were dressed incredibly alike.

Most of my time in Sucre I spent just walking around and exploring the city. On Sunday there was this big car rally with race cars doing timed laps in a route through the town center. There were also classic cars and fancy cars on display next to the main plaza. I also spent a lot of time at the Joy Ride Cafe. It was amazing food and drinks and made for a good time with the group of travelers I was with.

Buenos Aires to Sucre

On Friday I left Buenos Aires to begin my travels. I took a bus from BsAs to the border with Bolivia. It was a 26 hour trip but it was not bad at all. It was interesting to see the variety of views throughout northern Argentina, from flat lands to what looked like jungle coverd mountians. That part was quite beautiful. Sometimes I seem to forget how many diferent kinds of landscapes are contained within the country. Arrived in La Quiaca (Argentine side) on Saturday afternoon, where I walked across and did all the paperwork and payments to enter Bolivia. Villazon (on the Bolivian side) looked like Tijuana to me, I guess lots of border towns have a run down look to them. Got a bite to eat and then got on a bus from there to Sucre. It was a 12 hour trip on a small bus or large van full of about 40 people. It was cold, cramped and unbelievable bumpy ride. Everyone told me that busses in Bolivia are and experience but I really had no idea. Most of it was on windy dirt roads that went up and down the mountians. After surviving that I feel like any sort of trip will be not so bad. Arrived in Sucre around dawn and had some trouble getting into a hostel but another group of travelers helped me out and I got to sleep from dawn til about noon in Sucre.

Ushuaia pt. 1

On Wednesday I flew down here to Ushuaia. My first day was traquilo, just walked around the main part of town and the canal. Being only 1000km from Antarctica and the beginning of winter it is obviously quite cold down here, usually right around freezing. Anyways, I found lots of sports stores, which were surprisingly inexpensive. I gave in and finally bought a pair of trekking shoes. Completely water resistant and insulated, they ended up being a perfect purchase since there is no way I could have done anything I’ve done here in just my Converse. Plus I imagine they will come in handy over the next few weeks. Wednesday night my lack of sleep from the past two days finally caught up with me and I passed out at like 9pm.

Ushuaia pt. 2

Thursday I went to the National Park of Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego is the name of this state, the most southern in Argentina). Ended up walking thought the park with a Belgium family that was on my flight and an Argentino from my hostel named Mariano. The park was very beautiful, full of lakes, lagoons and forests. The family was nice but they didn’t stick around long. Mariano and I ended up walking one trail along the largest lake to the border with Chile. The border was just a small metal tower and a sign saying not to cross into Chile. Then we walked back and went to another trail that was in the southern part of the park. This one was a lot more difficult because a large portion of the trail was covered in ice and there were parts where it was safer to skate than try to walk. It was worth it though because the views were beautiful and it was incredible to be in such silence. A big change from Buenos Aires. Mariano was great company and it was much nicer to walk for 6 hours with someone else and not on my own (not to mention safer). I think in total we trekked about 9 or 10km.

That night Mariano, an Español named Siscu, another Argentino Guillermo, a hostel employee Adriano, a Chilena and I went to a bar called El Invisible. There was a tango class being taught and we just watched and had a few drinks. Back at the hostel we sat around and had a really interesting conversation just about life. I love hearing other people’s stories and lessons they’ve learned. Plus, I felt pretty proud cuz the whole convo was in Spanish and not only did I understand everything, I didn’t have to translate it in my head first. Besides seeing so many spectacular things, I think the best thing about traveling is getting to meet so many different people and to be able to learn from them. Plus its just fun! Anyways, it was just a really good start to this trip.

Ushuaia pt. 3

Friday Mariano and I hiked Glacier Martial. It is a glacier that is at the summit of a mountain about 7km behind Ushuaia. The walk up to where the chairlift ended was pretty easy. There was snow everywhere but it wasn’t snowing at the time and there was very little wind. From there we kept going up (to where you’re not supposed to walk). After a while we met a local named Carlos who was scouting out routes for some crazy extreme sport where you roll down a path in this giant ball, can’t remember what its called. He ended up guiding us even further up the mountain to about 650 meters above sea level. Parts were pretty challenging but thankfully a lot of rocks were still exposed which made it a bit easier and safer. The best part though was the views. Absolutely amazing views of the surrounding summits as well as the city canal and islands below. And the weather was just perfect as well. To get back down we had to slide on our butts (in the steep parts) or run (to keep from getting stuck or too wet). It was a pretty funny experience. In all we spent about 3 hours on the mountain and it was definitely the best thing I’ve done so far on this trip. Friday night Mariano, Guillermo and I went to a hall in town where they were showcasing Cuban films. We saw “Strawberries and Chocolate,” which I liked but I had a hard time understanding the Cuban accent. Later that night Siscu joined us and we went to see a band play at El Invisible. I guess it was rock music, which was good but just not energetic enough to keep me interested.

Ushuaia pt. 4

Saturday I slept in finally and then just did some shopping in town. Chocolates, gifts, more socks . . . . It’s still strange to me how everything just shuts down on Sundays. Most stores are closed all day and even the restaurants are closed or have much shorter hours. Even in Buenos Aires. Also, in smaller towns shops are usually closed in the afternoon, from about one to four or five. I guess it makes sense since most people are at work during that time but it’s still strange to adjust too.

So ya, besides that all I really did was eat dinner with everyone in the hostel. Siscu cooked paella that was delicious. I got the recipe from him and I’m gonna try it out soon!

Sunday . . . . walked around town with Guillermo and Siscu. Found some really pretty views of the city. In the afternoon some other people from the hostel and I went on a boat tour of the Beagle Channel. It was pretty expensive and really touristy but it was worth it. It took us out to an island from which you have a great view of the city. Then an island with sea lions, an island with these birds that look like penguins but aren’t actually penguins (they could fly). And lastly we went past a lighthouse, which everyone calls the lighthouse at the end of the world even though the most austral lighthouse is actually on Staten Island which is off the coast of Tierra del Fuego.

Ushuaia pt. 5

Monday was a holiday so again everything was closed down. I tried to walk around the upper part of the city but it didn’t go to well because I hurt my knee the other day. I think it was Saturday night when I was walking to the bar I slipped on some ice on the sidewalk. Anyways, now my knee is all swollen and it hurts to bend it. So I just spent the day hanging out at the hostel. Caught my flight that night and got back to the city by Tuesday morning.

All in all it was a great trip. The city itself was beautiful and relaxing, though I could have done everything I wanted to do in about 3 days (versus staying for 6). I think the glacier was my favorite excursion. Also, the people were amazing. It was incredible to see how people from different cultures, languages and ages can come together and learn from each other. I guess that’s the other thing I feel like I took away from this trip, more knowledge (and recipes!).

SEE ALL MY PHOTOS HERE.

This was my first time really traveling alone and it has made me sooo sooo excited to start the rest of my travels!

Change of plans . . .

Once again, I´ve decided to change around all my plans! I love that I can re-adjust my life and be impuslive in a way that lets me do what makes me happiest. Ok maybe impulsive isn´t the right word. I´m not one to make decisions without thinking them through and weighing all the pros and cons. Honestly it makes me very happy to be reminded how much control I have over my life and I´m glad that I don´t have things that hold me back or prevent me from doing exactly what I want. Ahh to be young and without major responsibilites. Jaja.

Anyways, the new plan is to stop classes, travel earlier and go back to the states earlier. On Wednesday I head to Ushuaia (no more El Calafate). On Monday night I´ll fly back to Buenos Aires and then start traveling on Thursday or Friday. I´ll start my 5 week travel-by-bus through Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. I´m trying to find some sort of flight back but I might have to bus back as well (ahhh I don´t want to do 3-5 days on a bus). I will get back to Buenos Aires by the 8th of July and the next day my mom comes. Two weeks with her in the city and a trip to Bariloche then I´ll fly back to the states the 20th or 22nd of July. A few days in Msvl then down to San Diego by August 2nd so I can start summer school.

I´m really happy with this choice to change things around and oohhhh I can´t wait to start traveling!

Thinking about the future . . .

The other day I realized that class registration for Fall 2009 at UCSD is fast approaching. So I finally did what I have been avoiding since November . . . . I decided what I'm actually getting my degree in. Ok I knew that at least one major would be International Studies with a focus on Political Science and on Latin America. However, I was having a horribly difficult time deciding what was most important: graduating in June '10, having a relevant internship, a job I actually get paid for or double majoring. I would love to do all of them but that just isn't a viable option for me (I wish I would have taken more classes as a Freshman and Sophomore). Part of the reason that choosing between these things was so difficult was because I was so sure that I wanted to go to grad school as soon as possible after UCSD. Anyways, looking at what classes I wanted to take next quarter I finally made some decisions.

I am going to double major in Int'l Studies and in Spanish Language Studies (part of the Linguistics department). Hopefully, if I work hard enough and the right classes are offered at the right times, I'll be able to graduate in June of next year. If not I'll have to stick around for summer school or more likely Fall Quarter 2010 (tho I would still do the graduation ceremony in June). I know there aren't many relevant internship opportunities in SD so I'm not going to worry too much about getting that kind of experience right away. Especially since I don't really know exactly what I wanna do with my life.

I've also changed my thinking for post-UCSD. I have known for a long time that I love learning and that I want to continue my education in graduate school or maybe law school. But before I felt as if I had to do it immediately after my undergrad. That if I didn't do all this preparation during UCSD and go to grad school straight away I would never have the opportunity. Part of this is well founded with the ever increasing competition and costs. But then I realized that there are other things I might want to experience first. Why all this rush for grad school and, well, reality? I would love to take some time and travel more, maybe do a research program abroad, just live life more. Not that grad school, full-time employment or having a family isn't living life . . . but for me I think there is more I need to see and do and experience. Since deciding this I've felt an enormous amount of relief. I realize that I have all these options and opportunities ahead of me and that there are many routes that can take me to a desired destination.

Tests and Travels

I'm officially done with my first round of midterms. I had a theory midterm last week and then my history midterm on Tuesday. Both went ok but I'm not sure how they will be graded (I'm hoping for 7's because if I get 7's or higher on all my midterms I won't have to take finals).

This was also a big week for flight purchases. I booked a flight for my momma to come visit me for 2 weeks in July! I am so very excited for this and last night I even had a dream about her being here to visit. Thinking about someone coming to visit me has made me realize how much I'm going to have to explain. There are many aspects of la vida cotidiana (everyday life) that I am accustomed to that I forget are completely different from life in Cali. Like the people selling things on the subte and busses, cat-calls, the importance of monedas (coins), toilets . . . things that were strange to me when I first arrived but now are just a normal part of life. Besides just being able so see and visit with my mom, I'm excited for someone from home to be able to share this part of my life with me. Living here in BsAs has affected me so much and I am glad to have the opportunity for someone from my other life to come here and understand it.

The other big flight purchase was a flight to El Calafate and Ushuaia. On the 20th of May I'm flying to El Calafate which is in southern Argentina near the Andean mountian range. I'll probably spend a day or two there seeing glaciers and parks. Then I'll take a 12-14 hour bus to Ushuaia (with one stop along the way). Ushuaia is the most southern city in the world! - Note: Buenos Aires is more south than South Africa - And I'll likely spend about 4 days in Ushuaia! Ahh I'm sooo excited for this. There probably won't be enough snow for snowboarding but I'm still looking forward to doing things like tours, boat rides, seeing national parks etc.

I've also started looking into a trip to Brazil for late June and I've been thinking about trying to make it to Colombia in August . . . its just a thought and would depend on when I start traveling, how much I like Chile, when I fly back to the U.S. . . . .

The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl

Guess what . . . . I have a job!! When I first got here I found a Craigslist posting from a group that organizes bar hopping events (side note: Craigslist is absolutely amazing and I don't know what I'd do without it). Its called the Buenos Aires Pub Crawl and its a group of people (mostly from the States) and they take the people who come (mostly international travelers) out to a bunch of bars and then to a boliche (i.e. a dancing club). My job is to promote and to help out at the events. Its a bit different than most of the jobs I've had but so far I like it. Its fun plus I get to meet a bunch of interesting people from all over the world. And best of all, my coworkers all seem like great people too work with. Don't worry . . . . I'm still being responsible and I'm not going to get caught up in anything (I already got a lecture from my Dad jaja). Maybe this will be my little reward for busting my ass so hard while I was in the States last. So far its been a pretty good reward.

Besos

To Experience . . . .

You may already know this but I have this weird obsession with lists. I make lists for everything. Shopping lists, to-do lists, to read lists . . . I probably have a list for every other day of the year. Strange, I know. But anyways, today I turned one list into a bit of art/decoration. These are all the things I want to experience while I'm down here (most are in Argentina but not all). Somehow last semester I didn't end up doing a lot of the things I had planned so this time I am determined to experience them! And now its a little bit of decoration and a little bit of reminder above my desk. If there is anything big I missed, let me know.

P.S.
Two posts in one day means that this blog has become my second favorite way to avoid actually doing my reading for class . . . .

Olavarría

For Semana Santa (aka Holy Week) I took a mini vacation to the town of Olavarría which is the hometown of Santi and Majo (two people I lived with last semester). It was about a 7 hour bus ride that flew by because Norma (former roommate), Christo (also lived at the Resi last semester) and I slept the whole time. Friday we got a little tour of the town, had fish and rice for dinner and then enjoyed a bit of the night life. For me, Saturday was the best part of the trip. We woke up and around 11 we drove out to Santi's parent's country house. It was about an hour drive through fields and farms and it looked surprisingly like the drive on I-5 when you are north of the grape vine. Just flat fields with occasional houses or clumps of trees. We ate an amazing asado that was mostly carne (i.e. cow meat). Mmmm and my favorite is the choripan! After eating copious amounts of meat we all laid around in the grass outside and napped. The weather was absolutly perfect and it was the most relaxing thing I've done in a long time. When we woke up we enjoyed some mate and fracturas (little pastries with a fruit filling or chocolate drizzeled). Then we explored the camp a bit and saw the horses, mini ponies, sheep, cows, orchards and miles and miles of pastures. By the time we finished the sun was setting and it was absolutely breathtaking. It was a really nice día en el campo. Saturday night we had more yummy home cooking and checked out more of the nightlife.

Sunday we went to Majo's parent's house for lunch. Again we had a delicious asado but with different kinds of meat than the day before and great red wine. I was brave and I tried liver, lamb and something else (I still don't know what it was). Of the three the only thing I didn't like was the liver, ewwww. After lunch we had some ice cream and chocolate eggs (because of course the commercial parts of the holiday exist everywhere . . .). In the afternoon me, Santi, Majo, Norma and Christo all piled into Majo's dad's truck and he drove us back to BsAs. But since it was the end of a long weekend we of course hit a ton of traffic trying to get back into the city. So Majo's dad decided to take a short cut and explore a bit. We ended up driving through probably 25 or 35 miles of country back roads but it worked and we got around what a huge traffic jab that was probably because of an accident.

Overall it was a really great weekend and here are the rest of the pics. I love going home with people and getting a glimpse of family life outside of the city. It is also refreshing to be in a house, with a loving family eating "mom's" delicious home cooking." Jaja. This trip did re-awaken my desire to get out and travel more while I'm here. I spent quite a bit of today planning out some of the trips I want to make and trying to decide when I'm going to go where . . . .

Chau, besos.

Sunday Morning

I think there is a good chance that this is the most unproductive I've ever been. Even when I was in Msvl for two months with absolutely no responsibilities I got more done than I have in the past week or so. And with the holidays I know next week will be more of the same. Ehhh I hate feeling like this but sometimes I just don't know how to get out of it. Hopefully once I have more responsibilities and get into a more regular schedule it will get better.

Oh I did have a big achievement today though! My Señora is out of town for two weeks and when I woke up this afternoon (yes it was past 12) the internet wasn't working. So I fiddled with equipment a bit but still, no internet. So . . . instead of giving up I found the number and called tech support. I talked to the guy and he walked me through what I had to do to fix the connection. I am posting this so obviously I got it to work. Now, the exciting part of all this is that it was all in Spanish! I mean tech support or customer service can be hard and a major pain in the ass in general, but doing it all in your second language (and I don't know computer jargon in Spanish) is hard! So ya, I was very pround of myself.

P.S.
Did you know that hotdogs taste absolutely amazing at 5:30 in the morning??

Classes, Cooking, Conversation

I can't believe its been almost a month already. It is kind of scary, how fast time goes by. Every year just goes by faster than the one before it and everyone tells me that this is the way it will always be. That the older you get the faster time seems to go by. I don't want it to be like that! I want things to pass slowly so I can take everything in and enjoy the little things in each moment.

Ah, anyways . . . things are going well here in BsAs. I changed my schedule around at UBA. I'm now taking History of Argentina and Theory of International Relations. History is a bit boring but I like it because it is giving me a more in depth understanding of things I already know a little about. I've only had one Theory class (I joined the class during 3rd week) but I really really like it so far. The readings are very stimulating and it seems to be quite relevant to my major (go figure from the title and all).

My exciting news: my cooking is improving! I cooked my first real peice of meat the other day. Steak with sauted peppers and onions. Mmmm it was quite yummy if I do say so myself. Even my old standby - pasta - is getting better. I'm figuring out new varieties and new kinds of sauces.

I've also been a little home sick lately too. I think its probably because I was without internet for about two weeks so I haven't really been able to talk to anyone from home. I miss my family so so much. I want them to be here so they can share some of these experiences with me. And I miss all the things I do with my friends from home. I'm sad I'm missing baseball season (but I do get to listen to UOP games online). And I miss my girls in San Diego, especially Dollar Scoop. But, now that I have internet I can start catching up with people I miss and start making arrangements for people to come visit me . . . . yay!

24 de Marzo

Yesterday was 24 de Marzo, the 33rd anniversary of the golpe de estado in Argentina that started of a seven year brutal military dictatorship which is also called la Guerra Sucia. It is now a national holiday that serves to remember the estimated 30,000 people that were "disapeared" during the course of the dictatorship.

I believe there were about 10,000 people (thats the number according to the media) who gathered throughout the day in the Plaza de Mayo. This is a huge plaza in downtown that is right in front of the house of government (like the White House in the U.S.) as well as other official buildings. Over the past few years I've learned a lot about the military dictatorship in Argentina (as well as similar ones in other countries) and how truely horrible it was but I know that not living throughout it and not being Argentine myself means that I can't really understand it. Never the less, being there with all those people was such a powerful experience, unlike anything I've ever been though before.

The plaza was packed with people of all ages and backgrounds (mostly). It was full of banners and signs for different parties and organizations. People were chanting, giving speaches, marching . . . I don't thing I've ever seen so many people gathered together like that before. Its hard to explain just how it felt but it was powerful, moving and overwhelming. It was also interesting because I've seen so many pictures and videos of Plaza de Mayo packed with people protesting, celebrating and mourning and to actually be there and experience it in person was incredible.

Update

One week down, lots left to go. Had my first classes and they went well. Just introductory lectures so next week will be more normal and we will start to get into the subjects. So far it looks like it will be about the same level as UCSD but just a different language. Things in the apartment are good as well. MariLu wants to have a little get together on Sunday so that I can meet some of her friends and some international students that are living with them. Should be interesting/fun.

I have really been enjoying time with friends. Since I have gotten back I have realized just how important some people are in my life. And I love going out with everyone. The rest of our group (with the exception of one) arrives this weekend and we are all gonna go out together. Ahhh Im really excited for that.

P.S.
I promise that once I get settled in and have more time that my posts will get more interesting than these have been so far :)

Settling In

I'm all done with UCSD for the year! Last night was quite a roller coaster trying to finish my last final. It was a 10 page research paper and I had everything done except for actually writing the essay, which for the life of me I couldn't do. Briefly, I even contemplated just not doing it . . . but then someone gave my own advise back to me and that motivated me to get going on it. Note to self: don't try to do finals while in another country. Ohh and look what I found . . . http://www.ulinks.com/topuniversities.htm Top 10 in the nation is pretty damn good I must say. Thought UBA started today but really it starts Wednesday for me (today and tomorrow's classes are like section and thus don't happen before the first lecture). Still not completely sure how this system works but I'm learning and adapting.

Went grocery shopping today so now I wont starve! My diet is gonna be a bit restricted for a while. I'm good with fruits, pastas and sauces here and in the U.S. but I'm not too confident with meats. Even in San Diego I pretty much stick to shrimp and chicken (jaja anyone I've lived with who is reading this is laughing right now). Maybe I should get Santi or Nahuel to take me shopping and teach me how to buy and cook more meat. Ehh I'll let you know how it goes.

Ok time to Skype. Besos!

Its been a busy weekend

I got the apartment I saw last week and I moved in yesterday! So far so good, its really nice. The Señora is very sweet and welcoming and the apartment is really comfortable. The elevator takes forever though because the aptartment is on the top floor, the 18th, but its worth it because I have an amazing view of the city and of Rio de la Plata (the pic is the view from the balcony). I also really appreciate the location because I already know and love this neighborhood and a few friends live right around here too.

I finally went out this weekend too. Went to a bar for a bit on Friday night and on Saturday we had a previa (the Argentino word for pregame) at the apartment of a girl we used to live with. It was cool meeting new people and friends of friends. After, some of us went to a club called Crobar (one I went to all the time last semester) but it just wasn't the same without the rest of our group of friends there. Next weekend more friends will be arriving tho!

Also, still a little stressed about school. I finished my physics final last week but I still have a research paper to finish for my literature class. I've already got a 5 page outline but now I have to turn it into a 10 page paper. Ahh . . . oh well at least its an interesting topic: the transition from folk rock to psychedelic rock in the mid to late 1960's. Hopefully I can get myself into my writing zone and be done with it.

Ok last topic . . . . why does figuring out what you want have to be so difficult sometimes? I feel like this should be the easiest kind of decision in the world. This makes me happy, I want it. This doesn't make me happy, I don't want it. But then we tend to over-complicate it by worrying about all the different ways the future could turn out. The "what if's" . . . . I wish we could just say exactly what we mean/want/need with complete honesty and have it be understood. Its these little complications that become a huge deal and they drive me crazy.

Me voy para escribir. Besos.

Day Five

Well, things are starting to come together for me. When I first got here my excitement was dampened a bit by the weight of all the things I knew I had to take care of still. I went to UBA today and signed up for classes, I start Monday. I'm taking Political and Social Theory I and History of Argentina. Also, I've looked at a few apartments and today I finally found one I really like that works with my budget. Its just down the street from where I lived last time on the 18th floor of a nice apartment building. Anyways the lady is very sweet and friendly. She is supposed to call me this evening to let me know if she wants me to move in (or she will choose someone else who has come to see the room) so I've got my fingers crossed.

Hmm . . . what else? I've just been trying to enjoy being back. The weather has been cooling down a bit, and today it has been rainy. I love just walking around the city, watching the people, taking in all the sights and sounds. Ohh and I love the food! The other day finally had some ice cream and oooh was it good (but it was from Freddo and I prefer Modena). Also, I've been getting to spend quality time with friends here. Haven't gone out to the bars or clubs yet but that will probably happen this weekend when Becky is here! Can't wait!

Ok well I still have things to take care of, like the two finals for UCSD I still have to write. . . . uhhh I can't procrastinate with those anymore cuz the due dates are fast approaching.

Chau

Stuck at the airport . . .

And it feels pretty crummy. I got here about 6 hours to ago and i have at least another 2 hours to wait. Something on the plane was broken so now that the new part is here they are working to fix it. Although its no fun being here I'm glad its getting fixed before this really long flight.

Airports are weird for me. When I fly back and forth from San Diego to Sacramento I always seem to have good feelings about it and am almost always in a good mood. Maybe its because during these times I'm flying back and forth between my two families and my two homes. I know that in either place I will find people who love me, people who make me happy. But right now, and the other times I've flown internationally, its a whole different story. The first time I flew to BsAs I was mostly scared (understandable though). Coming back was sadness. At the time the pain of saying goodbye outweighed the excitement of going home. Today, I guess i feel like I'm in limbo. I'm not too sad to leave Cali. I know I will miss my friends and my family but I know that they will be here when I get back and hopefully a few of them will actually make it down. I also feel an absence of excitement. . . . . it sounds so wrong I know. I am going back to an amazing city that I love, I get to see friends that are very special to me, its a new semester at a new university, I'm going to be traveling all over the place and having all new experiences . .. . the list could go on and on. I just don't feel the excitement that I know I should feel.

Maybe it is because I know that things are completely different than when I left. Change is never easy, especially when its people and their situations that change. This probably doesn't make sense. I just know that I am sad but I just can't figure out what part of all this is causing it. Ehh, it could just be the sleep deprivation catching up with me. I'm gonna sleep a lot and when I wake up I will be in a new (sort of) city, starting a whole new chapter of my life. Here goes.